Learn how to Lead Rock Course

Introduction to Rock Leadership course in Lofoten – 3 days

Learn to Lead Lofoten Rock!

Take your climbing to a new and safe level by learning from our certified guides.
For many intermediate rock climbers the most challenging and potentially dangerous skill set is transitioning into lead climbing on traditional gear. Our Traditional Rock Leadership course will introduce climbers to the techniques and skills required to safely lead single and multi-pitch traditional rock routes while advancing technical and improving movement skill.

The Introduction to Rock Leadership course addresses each of the components required to safely and successfully lead a traditional rock climb. Course highlights include:

• Care and selection of traditional climbing gear
• Introduction to modern traditional technique
• Anchor building techniques and management
• Leader safety in both a single and a multi-pitch environment
• Technical free climbing movement for a leader

Is this trip for me?

Participants should be comfortable following 5.8 US/ 5- Norwegian indoors and outdoors and have some experience top-rope climbing outside.

Practical information:


Day One:
Meet your guide at our office in Kalle 9am.
Selection, use and care of traditional gear.
Discuss traditional racking techniques.
Practical applications of both passive and active protection.
Introduction to traditional anchors for leaders.
Practical applications of different lead belays.
Introduction to the auto-blocking belay device.
Introduction to simple rescue techniques.

Day Two:
Introduction to multi-directional anchors.
Introduction to anchor and rope management.
Practical work in a mock multi-pitch setting.
Practical work in a mock single pitch setting.
Discussion of fall factors and how they apply to the leader.

Day Three:
Techniques for cleaning anchors and rappelling.
Techniques for rappelling a multi-pitch line.
Discussion of lead climbing strategies, both physical and mental.
Guided example of a short multi-pitch line.
Practical leadership work in a single pitch setting.
Practical leadership work in a multi-pitch setting.


Dates: Every Monday – Wednesday all Summer. Custom dates available.
Trip Length: 3 days, 9am – 5pm.

Skill Level

Previous climbing experience required.


We supply the Ropes, Rock Rack, and all technical equipment. We also provide rock shoes, harness, and helmet. You will need to carry your own back pack to the instructional area with your personal equipment, clothes, water, snack food, and have some some space for a rope. Hiking shoes or running shoes work fine for the short hikes in and out.


5000 NOK per person. Minimum 3 climbers.

Guiding Ratio: 3 climbers:1 guide is our maximum ratio.


Included in Price:
– professional guide/instructors and all technical equipment.
– climbing shoes, harness, and helmet.

Not Included in Price:
– clothing, food, water, or backpack.
– transportation.
– travel insurance.

UAIGM Certified Guides
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