Denali Ski & Climb Expedition
Denali – West Buttress Ski Expedition.
This is a very special ski/climbing expedition to the top Denali. We use ski’s to maximize our travel times and efficiency and also allowing us to make nice turns while acclimatizing and moving supplies up the mountain. This trip is designed for experience skiers and climbers who wish to us ski’s while climbing Denali. We have strict requirements on climbing and skiing level and experience so if your interested in this trip please contact us as soon as possible.
Northern Alpine Guides (NAG) is proud to work with Alaska Mountaineering School to offer you a Denali Ski Expedition. This trip is run in correlation with Alaska Mountaineering School (AMS) a registered and permitted Guide Service with in Denali National Park.
Huge glaciers, high altitude, extreme weather, steep icy slopes, and crevasses combine to make Denali one of the most difficult and severe mountains in the world to climb. Our guides do not underestimate the severity of conditions or the effects of high altitude and stack the odds in their favor. To reach the summit of Denali is a worthy achievement that does not come easily and must be sought after with the highest degree of attention to detail and expedition climbing strategy.
This trip is designed for fit climbers and skiers with previous high mountain travel and glacier skiing looking to take it to the next level in the Alaska wilderness. We will cover all skills necessary to camp, travel, and climb safely in the high Alaska Range.
Weather and snow conditions will ultimately determine our progress on the mountain. This itinerary is a rough guide and outlines a possible schedule. Our style on the mountain is flexible and will fluctuate on a 24 hour basis depending on conditions. With lucky weather, most expeditions return a day or two early. On the other hand, delays at the start with un-flyable weather and storms at high camp may result in running out of time. It is possible at high camp for us to extend the length of the expedition and allow more time for those who wish to tough it out and who have a flexible schedule.
***UPDATE*** New Denali National Park Regulations limit the use of Ski’s above 11,000 ft Camp. This means we will use Skis to 11,000 and climb from that elevation.
Day 1 8:00 am meet at AMS for orientation, gear check, and pack lunches. 4:30 pm fly to Base Camp, 7,200′, distance: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6850′
Day 2 Base Camp: organize, acclimate, review glacier travel and crevasse rescue, take a deep breath and enjoy the view
Day 3 Single to Ski Hill, Camp 1, 7,800′, distance: 5.5 miles, elevation gain: 600′
Day 4 Carry to Kahiltna Pass, 9,700′, distance: 5 miles, elevation gain: 1900′
Day 5 Move to Kahiltna Pass, Camp 2, 9,700′, distance: 5 miles, elevation gain: 1900′, under the right conditions we may move all the way to 11,000′
Day 6 Single to 11,000′, Camp 3, distance: 1.5 miles, elevation gain: 1300′
Day 7 Rest day
Day 8 Carry to 13,500′ around Windy Corner, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 2500′
Day 9 Move to 14,200′, Camp IV, distance: 2.75 miles, elevation gain: 3200′
Day 10 Back carry 13,500′ cache, distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 700′
Day 11 Carry to 16,200′ , distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 2000′.
Day 12 Rest at 14,200′
Day 13 Move to 16,200 feet or 17,200′, Camp V, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 3000′
Day 14 Rest day or move to 17,200 feet, Camp VI, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 3000′
Day 15, 16, 17, 18 Summit days, distance: 4 miles, elevation gain: 3120′
Day 19 Return to 14,200 feet or 11,000′, distance: 2.25 miles
Day 20 Return to Base Camp, 7,200′, distance: 11.25 miles, fly back to Talkeetna
Day 21 Weather day
Practical information:
Dates: Mid June – July
Trip Length: Trip Length: 21 days.
Glacial Travel and Alpine Climbing experience required. Advanced skier able to make controlled ski turns in all conditions with a heavy backpack.
Upon registration we will send you a complete equipment list. We offer a full line of rental gear so you do not need to stress the cost of all the equipment, if you don’t already own it.
Contact us for pricing.
Guiding Ratio: 3:1 or 6:2
Included in Price:
– all guide fees, glacier flights, field food and fuel, group camping and climbing equipment, personal issue sleds, base camp fee, camping at AMS in Talkeenta.
Not Included in Price:
– Transportation to and from Talkeetna, lodging in Talkeetna , National Park Service mountaineering special use fee and entrance fee (totaling $210) to be paid in Talkeetna during the first day of the expedition, travelers’ cancellation insurance, personal equipment and clothing, rental items from AMS, gratuities.
