Norway is an Ice Climbers wet dream.  Here you will find the worlds longest longest routes and aesthetic frozen waterfalls everywhere.  Norway has been referred to as an Ice Climbers Mecca.  Our guides have been guiding and setting up first ascents here for many years.  There is nobody better to introduce you to vast opportunities of ice climbing in Norway then with one of our local IFMGA/UIAGM certified guides.

Locations

All of our Norway ice climbing programs are arranged on a custom basis and run by a UIAGM guide.  We will consult you on the suitable itinerary for your skill level and desired climbing objectives.  Our favorite areas are as follows:

•    Rjukan – Telemark Region.  This is the best location in Norway to find stable conditions and routes at all skill level from November – March.  Rjukan in deep valley with over 150 established ice climbs all concentrated in a very small area and is easy to reach just 2.5 hr drive from Oslo.  New this year Rjukan has one of the nicest Ice Parks where they “farming” fresh ice just 5 minute walk from our beautiful lodge the Climbinn.  Classic single or multi-pitch routes range from easy WI 3 – WI 6 and all approaches are generally short and logistically easy.  This is the place to start your Ice Climbing trip to Norway or get private instruction from one of local guides.

•    Hemsedal – Buskerud Region. If you want to combine Ice Climbing and Skiing then Hemsedal is the best choice.  Here you have plenty of classic routes and one of Norway’s better ski areas all in the same valley.  Routes at all levels but not the plethora that can be found in other parts of Norway.

•    Eidfjord – Hordaland Region – Eidfjord is considered a must visit location for ice climbers who want to explore new routes or just experience huge steep ice routes.  It is a beautiful small village within the fantastic Hardangar Fjord.  Our guides have been establishing beautiful new routes here the last few years.  Here we can climb ice routes above the fjord and have access to long classic ice routes.  If your an experienced ice climber Eidfjord is a trip of a lifetime.

•  Northern Norway – Lofoten, Lyngen Alps, or Bodø.  In Northern Norway there is ALLOT of ice climbing and tons of routes waiting to be established.  The dark winter days north of the Polar Circle allows for climbing all winter but this area is best in late February – March when the light comes back and gives us long enough days to climb these routes without having to climb by headlamp.

•    Hidden Gems – Secret Places. If your looking for a real adventure and want to climb some first ascents in Norway with one of our guides, this is the trip for you.  We will climb and explore new areas and valleys where no one has ever swung an ice tool before.  This trip requires special planning and a climber of good fitness able to follow WI 5 with a light pack.  Contact us for more information.

Trip Highlights:

•    Comfortable accommodations – huts or hotels the entire time.
•    Very light backpacks.
•    Low client to guide ratio with UIAGM certified guides.
•    Aesthetic ice routes in one of the world’s greatest ice climbing venues.
•    Norwegian culture and excellent seafood.

Our Private Ice Guiding season books early, please contact us now for details and availability.

Photo Gallery

Groupsize – living and sleeping on board M/s Ylajali.

On this ski and sail trip there is room for up to 10 skiers, although many groups prefers to be between 6-8. This 80 ft. sailing yacht offers a comfortable luxurious journey. The boat has five spacious double cabins with toilets and showers in every cabin, hot and cold water, 220v and 12v all over the boat, large lounge with ample space for 12 people, small rib boat with an outboard motor, life jackets, projector for film, a small library, with climbing, skiing and various literature. Everything on-board M/s Ylajali is of a high standard. The boat is made of steel for maximum security, decorated in beautiful timber and is spacious and comfortable. It is well insulated and has central heating in all rooms, so that there is t-shirt conditions in lounges and cabins. The boat has a fully equipped kitchen, and the chef on board will prepare delicious food every day.  You are welcome to participate in the sailing or just relax on-board depending on your preference.

Area of Operation:

All tours will be planned according to where we get the best conditions for skiing in the Lofoten region. Lofoten is a historical place with several villages where the fishermen carry on the long tradition of Lofotfiske (cod fishing). You also can find 5000 year old caves, traces from the Sami and the Vikings, who also sailed these seas and lived here. Depending on destination and current weather conditions, we will start the day with a good breakfast, organize our equipment and get ready to chase the powder. Most of the peaks are between 750-1100 m staring at the beach, and we will use approx. 6-8 hours round trip. We´ll enjoy the stunning views and the days in the mountains. When we are back down to the boat again, it’s time for dinner, chilling, fishing, sailing and especially plan the next day’s destination.

Ski Lofoten Itinerary:

Program – 7 days / 6 nights
Day 1:  Arrival day. Transport to the sailboat. Rigging and arrangement of equipment, briefing and dinner on board.
Day 2-7:   6 -7 days of skiing/mountaineering and sailing.
Day 7:  Departure in the afternoon/evening.

Program – 4 days / 3 nights
Day 1:  Arrival day. Transport to the sailboat. Rigging and arrangement of equipment, briefing and dinner on board.
Day 2-4:  3 days of skiing/mountaineering and sailing.
Day 4:  Depart in the afternoon/evening.

Is Skiing in Lofoten for me?

This trip is designed for ski and sail enthusiasts, and is the best option for the annual trip! Experience the exotic winter landscape of Lofoten in a unique way. An important thing is that the group is relatively at the same level, since we have many alternative tours to choose from for all skill levels. If preferred we can provide 2 guides on the trip. We bring friends, groups and corporations and can tailor trips on request. When it´s time for a special occasion, to celebrate an anniversary or just time for something extra special, we can deliver a trip of a life time.

Equipment

Each guest brings private ski and avalanche gear, backpack and clothing for touring. A complete equipment list will be sent out when ordering the Ski & Sail package.

This is a very special ski/climbing expedition to the top Denali.  We use ski’s to maximize our travel times and efficiency and also allowing us to make nice turns while acclimatizing and moving supplies up the mountain.  This trip is designed for experience skiers and climbers who wish to us ski’s while climbing Denali.  We have strict requirements on climbing and skiing level and experience so if your interested in this trip please contact us as soon as possible.

Northern Alpine Guides (NAG) is proud to work with Alaska Mountaineering School to offer you a Denali Ski Expedition. This trip is run in correlation with Alaska Mountaineering School (AMS) a registered and permitted Guide Service with in Denali National Park.

Huge glaciers, high altitude, extreme weather, steep icy slopes, and crevasses combine to make Denali one of the most difficult and severe mountains in the world to climb. Our guides do not underestimate the severity of conditions or the effects of high altitude and stack the odds in their favor. To reach the summit of Denali is a worthy achievement that does not come easily and must be sought after with the highest degree of attention to detail and expedition climbing strategy.

Denali Ski Expedition Itinerary:

Weather and snow conditions will ultimately determine our progress on the mountain. This itinerary is a rough guide and outlines a possible schedule. Our style on the mountain is flexible and will fluctuate on a 24 hour basis depending on conditions. With lucky weather, most expeditions return a day or two early. On the other hand, delays at the start with un-flyable weather and storms at high camp may result in running out of time. It is possible at high camp for us to extend the length of the expedition and allow more time for those who wish to tough it out and who have a flexible schedule.

Day 1 8:00 am meet at AMS for orientation, gear check, and pack lunches. 4:30 pm fly to Base Camp, 7,200′, distance: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6850′
Day 2 Base Camp: organize, acclimate, review glacier travel and crevasse rescue, take a deep breath and enjoy the view
Day 3 Single to Ski Hill, Camp 1, 7,800′, distance: 5.5 miles, elevation gain: 600′
Day 4 Carry to Kahiltna Pass, 9,700′, distance: 5 miles, elevation gain: 1900′
Day 5 Move to Kahiltna Pass, Camp 2, 9,700′, distance: 5 miles, elevation gain: 1900′, under the right conditions we may move all the way to 11,000′
Day 6 Single to 11,000′, Camp 3, distance: 1.5 miles, elevation gain: 1300′
Day 7 Rest day
Day 8 Carry to 13,500′ around Windy Corner, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 2500′
Day 9 Move to 14,200′, Camp IV, distance: 2.75 miles, elevation gain: 3200′
Day 10 Back carry 13,500′ cache, distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 700′
Day 11 Carry to 16,200′ , distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 2000′.
Day 12 Rest at 14,200′
Day 13 Move to 16,200 feet or 17,200′, Camp V, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 3000′
Day 14 Rest day or move to 17,200 feet, Camp VI, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 3000′
Day 15, 16, 17, 18 Summit days, distance: 4 miles, elevation gain: 3120′
Day 19 Return to 14,200 feet or 11,000′, distance: 2.25 miles
Day 20 Return to Base Camp, 7,200′, distance: 11.25 miles, fly back to Talkeetna
Day 21 Weather day

Is this trip for me?

This trip is designed for fit climbers and skiers with previous high mountain travel and glacier skiing looking to take it to the next level in the Alaska wilderness. We will cover all skills necessary to camp, travel, and climb safely in the high Alaska Range.

Equipment

Upon registration we will send you a complete equipment list. We offer a full line of rental gear so you do not need to stress the cost of all the equipment, if you don’t already own it.

You can ski on your standard downhill ski equipment or bring your randonee boots and skis for the ability to leave the crowds behind and explore the hidden gems easily accessed by short tours out from the ski lifts.  In town Chamonix has everything from great food, live music, to small chill cafe’s to unwind after a great day of skiing in the Mont Blanc Range.

Off-Piste Chamonix Itinerary:

All our private ski guiding Itinerary’s in Chamonix are customized to the length of your stay. If your traveling from abroad we suggest you plan at least 3 days of skiing in Chamonix to maximize your time in the area giving you the opportunity to truly explore the world class ski terrain of the Mount Blanc Massiv.

Is Off-Piste Skiing in Chamonix for me?

Our ski program in Chamonix is perfect for all skill and fitness level of skiers. We can take you sking mellow powder filled slopes or steep technical lines and everything in between. There is a lifetime of exploration to be had in Chamonix on skis. We arrange diverse ski tours matching your skill and energy level with out a problem. This trip is for you!

Equipment

Upon registration we will send you a complete equipment list. Mid – Fat skis around 90-110mm under foot with an alpine-touring binding work best in Cham. We offer rental equipment out of a local shop if you don’t want to travel with you skis.

NORRONA (V) MAGAZINE lofoten 2011 from Norrona on Vimeo.

Svolværgeita Itinerary:

We have one or two starting times (morning and/or afternoon) everyday of the summer from 1st of June to 1st of October. The trip will take 3-4 hours round trip. 45 minute approach hike. 1.5 – 2.5 hours climbing and 25 minute hike out. A perfect half day trip.

Is this trip for me?

We regularly take fit guests up Svolværgeita who have never climbed before. So if you have some climbing experience inside or out and the will to climb, then we can give you a safe, fun, and memorable experience no doubt.

Equipment

We supply the Ropes, Rock Rack, and all technical equipment. Climbers will need to have rock shoes, harness, and helmet (free rental). You will need to carry your own back pack to the base of the route with your personal equipment, clothes, water, snack food, and have some some space for a rope. Hiking shoes or running shoes work fine for the approach and descent.

Gallery

Here is a little list of some of the High Points of this Spring:

• Ride the Planet, Came out from Russia in mid April and we guided them around for an amazing week of Steep Powder Skiing!  See video at the bottom of this post.  Beautiful trip!

• Team Red Bull came on a company trip late April and scored a week of sunshine and spring conditions.  They were amazed by the landscape, skiing, and culture.  Day after day of sunshine and a deep snowpack allowing them to ski from the summits to the sea all week long

• At the end of April we were visited by a strong group of 10 friends from Sweden here and they stayed at the Lofoten Ski Lodge.  They also scored a great week of powder skiing in April and May with lots of fresh snow and an amazing ski trip into Troll Fjord to wrap it all up.

• In May Lead guide Seth Hobby went out to Chamonix and worked on Steep Skiing with the crew at Steep Ski Camps and found perfect dry powder stuck on the steep north faces.

• The rest of May and into June we have been mostly rock guiding here in Lofoten with already a guided ascent of the classic Vestpillaren of Presten, many ascents on the Gandalf Wall, and 4 guided climbs on Svolvær Geita aka “The Goat”.

• On top of all this we are moving into an amazing new office on the main central corner in Kabelvåg.  Stay tuned for some pictures of the new office once we are done with the move.

We would like to send a big Thank YOU to all the great people who have come to ski and climb with us in Lofoten and the Alps this Spring Season.  The midnight sun is now in full effect so dust off your rock shoes and mountain boots and join us in the Lofoten Islands or Alps this summer for some of the worlds best alpine and rock climbing!

Lofoten Classic Rock:

Each route has is unique and takes a certain amount of time.  We can often do multiple of the shorter classic routes in a day and some of them require a full day on the rock.  If your looking for a guide to help you climb a classic of the area for the day or are looking for a week of fun routes throughout the Lofoten Islands this trip is for you!

Is this trip for me?

Due to the great rock quality here in Lofoten we can spend multiple days climbing classic routes at any skill level.  This is just the trip for you.

Equipment

We supply the Ropes, Rock Rack, and all technical equipment.  Climbers will need to have rock shoes, harness, and helmet (free rental).  You will need to carry your own back pack to the base of the route with your personal equipment, clothes, water, snack food, and have some some space for a rope.  Hiking shoes or running shoes work fine for the approaches and descent’s.